updates***updates***updates

Quick updates : See over at the organics with altitude blog for something I put together on the weather proof organic galloway cattle of Joe Condon.

The pictures alone are well worth viewing.

And see also a new link to a great idea from Ella McSweeney- a place for consumers to find farmers who sell direct.

Its called your field my fork, and it will hopefully grow nicely into a resource for foodies and farmers alike.

Her own site, and Suzanne Campbells' are both now over there too. About time I added them!

REALLY - WHERE'S THE (ORGANIC) BEEF JOHN?

Part two of my beef interview session with John Brennan. This one discusses the beef grade, and also features a different perspective to John's, that of Teagasc Organic Farming Advisor James McDonnell.

How should quality be defined in organic beef? There are two schools of thought.

(Pic: some of Joe Condon's galloway cattle)

One school suggests that organic cattle should be graded along the same lines as conventional, using the EU R O P system.

For non-farmer readers: This grid or grade system scores cattle carcass shape and muscle development from the top (E) to the bottom (P). Numbers 1 to 5 denote degree of fat on the carcass, with 1 having the least and 5 the most. Thus, in conventional farming, top price achieving animals are up at the U or (rarely) E levels, with a fat score of 1 or 2.

In organic farming in Ireland, a flat price is used instead of this grade system. However, it, or a modified version, is used in other EU countries for organic beef animals.

It could be argued that organic farming does not reward the highest achievers, producing, in conventional terms, the best animals. According to James McDonnell, organic advisor with Teagasc:

�The flat price doesn't do anything for the (organic) sector: in conventional, its all about quality. Good quality cattle and good carcass with better overall cuts are not being rewarded.�

�A Belgian Blue has more fillets, round roast and so on; but it could be argued that, in organic, poor animals are overpaid for, and visa versa. The factories would also prefer quality as they make more.�

He continues: �When factories were paying flat, there were beef blockages in the conventional sector�, pointing out that the flat price may also be mitigating against finishers in organic.

Indeed, top organic producers can sell into the conventional sector for the higher grade prices.

However, both the Good Herdsman and the Leitrim Co-op prefer to pay a flat rate.

For John Brennan of the Leitrim Co-op � we want to improve quality and confirmation, but this factory system isn't the answer�.

He points to a breed renowned for its eating quality: �Take the Aberdeen Angus � that is often graded as an O. It has a natural genetic merit in its confirmation, and for many consumers, the breed produces a superior meat. The grading system does not take organoleptic factors into account - so its about efficiency, not quality of meat. I won't accept anything but a flat rate.�

He continues �You need minimum of a 2 for fat cover � in Scotland R4 is ideal for organic. They have a lot of work done there on the Angus, where they are fed mostly on grass and silage, and finishing at 300 to 320 kg deadweight. Some oats and peas produced on the farm are also used as feed � really its a great system. Plus, they have managed to get PGI status for Scotch beef�.

Levels of grass feeding is another issue again: native breeds are more suited to a grass-based diet. Research suggests that increasing the grass content of the animal's diet increases the levels of conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), which is thought to help protect against cancer, diabetes and heart disease, without using external inputs (e.g. imported oils) to achieve this.

�If we had the conventional grading system in organic, it would penalise the native breeds�, breeds that, in a nutshell are more suited to the terrain and climate in Ireland, can finish off grass and have tasty marbling.

There is another element to this: �increasingly, supermarket buyers, especially abroad, don't want continental animals from Ireland�. In other words, they want breeds traditionally associated with Ireland and Britain.

�We need to look at low input animals, animals that are carbon footprint friendly. There should be a good conversion of feed into meat, from silage and grass, with just a a small amount of supplements�.

Increasingly, science, through the use of stable isotope tests, can test the meat itself to differentiate beef based on diet.

Research in Ireland by Professor Frank Monaghan and others has now clearly demarked grass fed from other meat, and organic from conventional.

So, in the final analysis, is it about the consumer or the factory?

WHERE'S THE (ORGANIC) BEEF? ASK JOHN.

Beef remains the strongest sector within organics. While there are also significant numbers of sheep farmers, sheep meat has struggled to gain a price premium.

Beef on the other hand, has both numbers and, by and large, something of a price premium. While there are preferable times of the year to sell to gain the premium, the largest organic meat processor in Ireland or Britain, Good Herdsman, recently let it be known that there is a shortage of about 11,000 beef animals in the system.

(Pic: Joe Condon's Galloways with room to roam)

From humble local beginnings in 1998, the Leitrim Organic Farmers Co-op now has a membership of over 100 beef and sheep farmers, from many counties across Ireland. The main areas it focuses on for its members are in finding markets, orgnaising for training and education, advice and lobbying.

A number of organic cattle marts have just finished up. I spoke to John Brennan of the Leitrim Co-op about how the trade has been.

�Confidence has returned to the sales� he tells me. �We had two in Drumcollagher, there were 137 sales at the first and 290 at the second.�

�Prices have improved - typically 2E per kg for heifers, E2.30 per kilo for good weanlings, while forward stores are also meeting good trade.�

�The numbers of organic cattle moved weekly is nearly at record levels - here and in the UK � and while the price is not at the record 2007 levels, it is nonetheless strong and giving confidence� .

Regarding export markets, there are some positive signs. �Tescos in the UK are buying a lot more organic meat again now. They seemed to panic a bit at the start of the downturn, and whipped organic off the shelves. While some customers did trade down to discounters, some of these in turn returned to their preferred supermarkets. So Waitrose, for example, have regained market share.�

Indeed, according to a report earlier in the year from the UK's Soil Association, among the three supermarkets with the biggest shares of the organic market � Sainsbury�s, Tesco and Waitrose � it was Waitrose that proved the most resilient in the recession. Its organic sales fell by only 3.5% in 2009 and it is predicting growth of 3-5% in 2010.

�There have also been increases in the market in Holland, especially for forequarter meat. This leaves other options with rear quarter meat�.

There are of course concerns: �the cost of feed is still an issue. The Sterling differential is helping, but some farmers are now growing their own feed. Some grow for Flahavans, and keep a portion for animal feed. Red clover is also coming strong earlier, and there was an earlier cutting date this year too�

Another issue is the age of slaughter. While there is a preference in the factories for animals slaughtered under 30 months, this comes with various costs and concerns for organic farmers.

According to John Brennan, as finishing under 30 months is difficult with vontinentals, �why not go to 33 or 35 months? Some cattle only reach their full desirable carcass weight at this age, especially the bigger animals like Charlois. But some processors, Slaney excluded, don't want animals that size.�

�A lot of it comes down to breed. With an Aberdeen Angus, they might be close to 280 kg at 20 to 24 months. But to push to and past 300 kg, or to try to get close to 350kg, is very difficult. You'd need another 10 to 12 months.�

�With the bigger continental animals, the Limosins or Belgian Blues, its very difficult without a lot of grain feeding, and feed is very expensive in organic.�

The discussion turned to paying by the grade. In organic, farmers are not paid by the grade for beef in Ireland, though they are in other countries, including the UK. He was especially animated about this issue. As you will see in my next posting on this topic.

People�s Mushroom Gravy

You'll need gravy for your table as well, of course. Thanks to Carolina O. from our Facebook page for suggesting that we get this recipe out to you. This recipe makes approximately 10 cups, which you will need, because this gravy rocks the boat!

Ingredients

4 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil

2 cups yellow onions, diced

3 cups mushrooms, sliced thin

3/4 tsp. black pepper

3/4 tsp. sage

1 Tbsp. dill

3 Tbsp. Braggs� Liquid Aminos

2 cups vegetable broth

2 cups soy milk

6 Tbsp. oat flour

6 Tbsp. nutritional yeast

How to make it

Heat the oil. Add onions and mushrooms and saut� until soft, then add the spices. Saut� for 1 more minute, then add the Braggs�, vegetable broth, and 1 cup of the soymilk. Bring to a boil. In a small bowl, combine the rest of the soy milk, flour, and yeast. Mix with a whisk, then add to the pot. Mix well. Heat until thickened. Remove from heat and allow to thicken further.

Cranberry Quinoa Stuffing

At People�s, we�ve run short of stuffing (we ordered 10 cases, and our distributor sent two!) and probably won�t have any in stock during this most stuff-iny-time of the year. Thanks to the folks over at Farm Animal Reform Movement, we do have a great recipe to offer that you and your guests will gobble up. Made from quinoa, the seed from the plant related to spinach, this stuffing recipe is gluten-free and high in protein.

Ingredients

� oz. dried oyster mushrooms
1 tsp. olive or vegetable oil
1 small onion, diced
� tsp. salt
� tsp. oregano
2 tsp. thyme
black pepper (to taste)
� cup cashew pieces
1/3 cup cranberries
� cup quinoa, uncooked
1 cup vegetable broth

How to make it

1. Rinse quinoa, then in a pot over the stove, add quinoa and 1 cup of broth and bring to a boil.

2. Cover when boiling and reduce to a simmer; cook for 12-15 minutes or until the germ separates from the seed (the cooked germ looks like a tiny curl).

3. Put dried mushrooms in a separate bowl of hot water and set aside.

4. In a large skillet, heat oil and then saut� onion over medium heat.

5. Add salt and let onion cook a few minutes until they�ve sweated a bit.

6. Add herbs, pepper, and cashew pieces and continue to cook for about 5 minutes.

7. While that�s happening, drain mushrooms and chop them up, then add to pan; add cranberries and quinoa and stir.

Kilskyre National School & its (certified) organic garden

10 years ago, most Irish gardens were for looking at or relaxing in. Now, gardening is back and new hubs are emerging, places where people are getting their hands dirty in the name of fresh food.

These include allotments, GIY (Grow It Yourself) gatherings, and, increasingly, school gardens.

Thousands of schools have done some growing in the last three years, thanks to the Meet the Spuds and Incredible Edibles initiatives. These yearly Agri-Aware schemes provided full growing kits to over 2000 schools.

One school growing with a difference is the Kilskyre National School, between Kells and Oldcastle in Co. Meath. This is one of the few schools to have gone and achieved full organic certification.

Gerard Ruane has been principal of the school since 2007.

(picture: Daryll, Katie Conor supervised by organic gardener Lill Coyne)

The beginnings were modest: � I hoped to plant a few rows of vegetables and hoped that I would be able to get a parent to give me a hand with this so I started the Green School Initiative in Kilskyre when I was began here�

Ruane was informed that the parent of a girl in 5th class would be a great help � Lill Coyne. Coyne has been an organic grower and member of IOFGA since the 1980s.

�We took the children to see the garden in St. Patrick's National School Slane, my old school. Mary Meade, the Deputy Principal there, created a fantastic garden - I was anxious for the children to see it as Mary created this garden with the children�.

�We then visited another school, Rathkenny, who have a fantastic garden that the children were also fully involved in. We went back to Kilskyre and Lill got all the children to design the garden they wanted. Lill collected these and merged them into one design combining all the elements the children had suggested. We started from there.�

�We started out by creating a fedge - the older children dug out sods and the children created a sod bank in which we planted willows�.

He continues: �Every Thursday the children I teach bring in wellies and old clothes. The Parent's Council bought the children tools - wheelbarrow, spades, forks and so on�.

�There is a summer/winter/autumn/spring garden. We have bug hotel, pond, wormery, composting pig, green cone, composting area for grass, wild garden, seating area. The main focus initially was feeding the soil and companion planting for pest control, as well as managing nutrients in the soil�.

There has been great parental and wider community involvement, exemplified by equipment donations, meitheals three times a year, and a burgeoning range of amenities, including bird viewing boxes and benches.

�As we are organic, Lill decided to apply for the license. We have been inspected and the inspector was amazed at the children's knowledge and full involvement in the garden�.

I spoke to Lill Coyne about their organic certification: �I'm an organic grower myself - I feel very strongly about it, and I thought it would be great for the children to have the chance to grow organically. They have access to clean, cheaper food that's healthier. They also get exercise, learn about heritage varieties and traditional methods, and about biodiversity and the balance of nature through things like the use of natural predators�.

�The work in the garden comes under Environmental Awareness and Care in the Geography and Science Curriculum�according to Gerard Ruane. �We also use it for Science nature trails, plant study and so on. There is a diary kept where the children write in what they do each day after they come in from the garden.�

Not only have the pupils grown food, they have learned the practical skills of packing, certification, labelling, and also selling. The produce has been sold, by the pupils, at local farmers' markets and at the school gate. This in itself imparts array of practical life skills, from doing calculations to running a business that relies on good customer relations.

Great stuff indeed, it surely begs the question: why isn't all education a little more like this?

ORGANIC SUPERMARKET NEWSLETTER

I have a new piece on the femininity of farming, in particular organic farming, in the new newsletter from the Organic Supermarket.

To follow on a bit from it, you could have a look at a piece I'm especially happy with, one that I've had in the read these section for ages (must update, I know!), called nature and class.

This deals with the more theoretical issues behind gender and nature, in an introductory sense.

Its a really interesting newsletter - lots of recipes, info, giveaways etc - well done to Darren and the team for getting it together.