Radio Days: BBC 4's Food Programme

I am featured on BBC Radio 4's current Food Programme. Its about Ireland and the Recession.

You can hear it here for the next 6 days :

here

(my bit is in second half of the show, towards the end)

ORGANIC MILK SCORES BETTER NUTRITIONALLY...AGAIN

Organic milk yet again scores better nutritionally.......

Before anyone starts, have a look at my take on the UK FSA report(part 1 and 2) on organic food and its nutritional superiority or otherwise. (Much of this Newcastle milk research, btw, was just outside the time frame of the UK FSA study....but then, 2/3 of all relevant and published peer reviewed research was too, so what's the biggie!?!)

A new study by researchers from Newcastle University has found significant health and nutritional benefits to organic milk. The research has found that organic milk is higher in beneficial nutrients and fatty acids and, importantly, it is so throughout the year. It also found that saturated fat levels are considerably lower in organic milk.

Saturated fats are considered unhealthy, and are implicated in heart-related conditions.

The European Union-funded study analysed 22 brands of milk available in supermarkets, including 10 organic brands. The milk was all purchased between 2006 and 2008.

The peer-reviewed paper said the health benefits were present all year round rather than just during the summer. Previous research by the same team on milk directly from dairy farms had found that organic milk's benefits held for the summer but less so for winter.

This new study is published in the Journal of Dairy Science. Lead researcher Gillian Butler, livestock project manager for the Nafferton Ecological Farming Group, said: "We wanted to check if what we found on farms also applies to milk available in the shops. Surprisingly, the differences between organic and conventional milk were even more marked. Whereas on the farms the benefits of organic milk were proven in the summer but not the winter, in the supermarkets it is significantly better quality all year round."

The researchers found that the conventional milk collected during a particularly poor UK summer and the following winter had significantly higher saturated fat content and far less beneficial fatty acids than in a more standard weather period.

The more proscribed dietary regimes for organic dairy cows, as compared to their conventional counterparts, is significant in explaining the differences. No more than 40% of the diet can be non-grass under the organic rules.

According to the Soil Association, the UK largest organic certification body:

�The paper not only shows why there is a difference in the nutritional quality of organic and non-organic milk, but also identifies the importance of feeding at least 60% grass or conserved grass to organic cows, as required by organic standards.

The research emphasises the huge importance of allowing cattle to graze outdoors and to eat a natural diet high in grass. This means organic cows do not depend on high levels of grain and proteins such as soya.�

Butler also pointed out that �we're always being told to cut down on the saturated fat we consume and switching to organic milk and dairy products provides a natural way to increase our intake of nutritionally desirable fatty acids, vitamins and antioxidants without increasing our intake of less desirable fatty acids�

"By choosing organic milk you can cut saturated fats by 30-50 per cent and still get the same intake of beneficial fatty acids, as the omega-3 levels are higher but omega-6 is not, which helps to improve the crucial ratio between the two."

Organic milk is considered the most researched of certified organic products.

In total, six studies have now found that organic milk has more fat-soluble nutrients - omega-3 fatty acid, Vitamin E and beta-carotene - than non-organic milk, as well as a healthier omega 3:6 ratio (skimmed milk does not have these nutrients).

The most scientifically robust study is by Glasgow and Liverpool Universities, which found that UK (whole) organic milk has on average 68% higher levels of the essential fatty acid omega-3 and a healthier omega-3:6 profile than non-organic milk.

Other recent research found that there were also specific health benefits: Dutch research showed that if infants up to two years old and their mothers eat organic dairy foods, then the infants suffer a 36% lower incidence of eczema - a type of allergic reaction common among Western children. This could be due to the higher CLA level in organic milk and in the breast milk of mothers consuming organic milk, as shown by another study.

Positive as these results are for the organic diary sector in Ireland, the research is on milk available in the UK, not in Ireland. Irish conventional cattle do consume more grass than their UK counterparts. Irish-specific research on organic milk is therefor needed.

Interested in Organic Farming? Then do one of these courses

A new round of Teagasc Organic Training courses have been announced.

These courses are compulsory for operators (i.e. farmers and food businesses) who want to apply to join the Organic Farming Scheme.

Accredited to FETAC level 5, they run over 25 hours, and are held one day per week for five consecutive weeks.

While technically compulsory, these Teagasc courses are also very useful for any farmer thinking of converting a holding to organic. All the basics of converting are outlined.

These include the organic standards, principles of organic production, economic viability and market opportunities, all of which will be covered to the required detail.

So participants will learn about costs, planning, returns, markets, nutrient and manure management, crop and animal husbandry, rotations, grass and forage management.

They also learn background information on organic farming and food, as well as available supports and reputable sources of information.

All of these Teagasc Organic Farming courses are tailored to suit the class, and involve guest experts and farm visits. Participants also work on their conversion plans, filling in the necessary application forms and writing a business plan � all very worthwhile tasks in themselves.

The locations and dates are as follows: 25 January Macroom; 26 January Ballinasloe; 26 January Tullamore; 27 January Clonmel; 27 January Mohill; 27 January Swinford; 28 January Ballyhaise; 28 January Tinahely.

I spoke to Teagasc organic advisors about the locations and the courses more generally.

Some of the above locations have not had Teagasc Organic Training Courses previously.

According to the advisors, they are responding to demand, and there is significant demand in these new locations. This is no bad sign for the growth in the numbers of farmers who may be farming organically in the coming years.

Already, 80 have participated in the courses that ran before Christmas, and about 500 have done the courses over the last 12 months. Of these about 50% have joined or applied to join the Organic Farming Scheme.

There are some distinct groups doing these courses. Farmers coming to the end of their REPS Three are interested. Returnees to farming are also interested.

There are a few types in this latter category. Many farmers had moved into construction during the Celtic Tiger years. They are now moving back to farming, and some of these are moving in to organic farming.

While there were some obvious transferable skills from farming to construction, there have also been returnees to farming from the financial and IT sectors. One I spoke with recently, Conor McDonagh, moved back from a business and athletics background in Australia to a completely changed Ireland in 2008.

He now is farming organically on his family land in Cavan, and is restocking an island his father once had cattle on, with organic goats and pigs. (see the current edition of the magazine Organic Matters for a full feature on this farmer)

Inevitably, some of these returnees have new ideas and skills about how and what should be produced from the home farm. This in turn has led to an increase in the number of farmers interested in value adding, rather than the more standard commodity production, according to the advisors.

In other words, more farmers are interested in retaining more of the ownership of both the product and the profits from the enterprise.

They also tell me that the organic farm walks have demystified organic farming, and helped with a process of myth-busting. The fact that the AEOS scheme and the Organic Farming Scheme can both be run simultaneously is also no doubt attractive to farmers considering their options.

(Note: At time of going to press, the next round of the Organic Farming Scheme has not formally been announced. However, as there were no budget cuts announced to either the Grant Aid or the Farming Scheme itself, stakeholders I have spoken to are hopeful that the overall Organic Farming Scheme will be available again for 2011.)

For more information, see www.teagasc.ie or contact: Pat Barry, Moorepark 087 2138331; Dan Clavin, Athenry 087 9368506; Elaine Leavy, Grange 087 9853285; James McDonnell, Oak Park 087 3293820.

Farmer concerns over changes for organic meat

This is part 2 of a 2 parter on rule changes for organic meat and direct selling. Here is part one.

Significant concerns have been raised by farmers over changes in the procedures for butchering certified organic meat.

Primarily, this concerns farmers who use local butchers and direct sell their own meat.

Up until now, farmers maintained a record book with all relevant details of the animal and slaughter. This was inspected as part of his own inspection.

Now the onus is being transferred over to the butcher.

It was always technically possible for these butchers to be inspected, but in practice the inspection has sufficed.

Farmers will now have to use butchers' registered with an Organic Certification Body (OCB). Alternatively, their own butcher will have to open himself up to organic inspection and eventual registration. The farmer will pay the cost of this inspection.

Some farmers are concerned. While some methods to possibly reduce this increased cost burden have been cited, for many farmers they will simply be paying more for the same procedure.

This, coupled with a fee increase from IOFGA, the largest OCB, means a significant cost increase for many organic livestock farmers. (The fee increase, as it is proposed, specifically mitigates against farmers with larger holdings and poorer land, as it is incrementally area-based)

Noticeably, the record book these organic farmers have been using makes much of the fact that unnecessary additional bureaucracy is avoided.

While it is claimed that the butcher will not have any extra paperwork, rather an examination of his existing paperwork, there are concerns here too.

It is a rare creature who goes out of his way to add a layer of inspection onto his business. With few organic farmers on their books, some farmers are concerned that butchers will see this as an unnecessary additional imposition not worth the hassle.

Some organic farmers, both those converting and full symbol, are worried that they will also have fewer butchers to choose from. This in turn could lead to a change in the relationship between butcher and farmer. If the farmer has paid for the butcher's organic inspection costs, the farmer is less likely to engage in the healthy competition of shopping around for butchers, as each additional butcher carries an additional inspection cost.

This places the farmer in a negative relationship, as the butcher could be perceived as having an economic 'hold' over the farmer in this context.

At present there are few registered organic butchers, and not all other butchers will want to sign up to organic inspection and eventual organic registration. This, some farmers worry, will mean that they are not choosing from the widest possible range of butchers in the region. Rather, they will be choosing from a far smaller pool of technically available butchers. This reduces the likelihood of finding the most skilled.

Crucially, some organic farmers have very specific cutting and mincing requirements (especially for non-Continental beef animals) and long standing positive working relationships with their preferred local butchers: not all organic burgers are the same. Why jeopardize this relationship?

Others are concerned with an unnecessary increase in travel, with both economic costs and stress on the animal. If the farmer has to find a new butcher willing to adhere to these stipulations, this butcher may or may not be nearby. With fewer to choose from, the chances are that he will not be nearby.

The system until now was also an excellent entrypoint, for conventional farmers who direct sell, into organic: they could retain their working relationship with their preferred local butcher, rather than finding another one.

EU rules and regulations are being blamed. And yet, according to the EU regulation: "It might in some cases appear disproportionate to apply notification and control requirements to certain types of retail operators, such as those who sell products directly to the final consumer or user. It is therefore appropriate to allow Member States to exempt such operators from these requirements."

The rules also suggest both the �organic integrity and vital qualities of the product are maintained through all stages of the production chain�.

Isn't that expertly cut meat by the best available butcher, with the direct-selling farmer carrying more of the burden of inspection?

Changes afoot for organic meat direct sellers

A two parter - for the next part, see today's Examiner.

Significant changes for certified organic livestock farmers are coming into effect in 2011.

Butcher shops or large scale processors will no longer be allowed use producer specific abattoirs, due to the volume of stock going through them.

Producer specific abattoirs/butchers are abattoirs/butchers that organic operators (businesses or farmers) use but which are not registered with an organic certification body.

However, organic farmers who use local 'unregistered' butchers and direct sell their meat will also be effected.

These local producer specific abattoirs/butchers will now have to be inspected by the organic certification body. The cost for this will be borne by the licencee, i.e. the farmer.

According to organic certification body IOFGA's Mary Lynch �it was always the case that the producer specific abattoirs/butchers could be inspected by IOFGA inspectors and that cost must be borne by the producers using the facility�.

However, IOFGA still felt it necessary to send a notification to farmers about the need for inspections of unregistered butchers.

Thus far, as well as adhering to the rules and procedures for livestock and processing in the Standards, these farmers maintained a record keeping book which was assessed as part of their inspection. They also informed the certification body of all necessary details of the animal and its processing. There were also procedures in place such as as the slaughter of certified organic animals first thing in the morning before any other animals. However there was no standardised regime of inspection of butchers not registered with an organic certification body.

According to Angela Clarke, certification manager of IOFGA:

�This should have been carried out over the past number of year(s) however it was not implemented by IOFGA. This is to ensure the integrity of the organic product. The whole process from the farmer to the end consumer must be inspected to ensure this integrity.�

She also pointed out that �DAFF (The Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food) are adamant that this must take place.... this issue was discussed in great detail at the Forum meetings with all certification bodies so this is not just an IOFGA decision.�

Direct selling farmers who currently work with their preferred local but unregistered butcher will have some decisions to make. They will have to either convince their butcher to accept this new regime, or they will have to change to a butcher registered with an organic certification body.

The literature recently sent to IOFGA members states that the farmer will have to carry the cost of the inspection. However according to Mary Lynch, there may be ways to minimise the costs to the farmer: �If both IOFGA and Organic Trust members are using the facility, then the premises would be inspected every second year by each OCB (organic certification body). Therefore, the cost to the producer can be reduced if they use a facility that another organic producer is also using.�

She also points out that the paperwork requirements are not onerous: �butchers/abattoirs are well used to the paper work that is involved with slaughtering livestock and the inspector will be checking existing paperwork and not asking for any new paperwork to (be) generated�.

She continues: �They are mainly checking that the animals from the producer was killed at the premises and the weight of meat processed for the organic producer, so that can be checked against the sales details of the producer�.

Beyond inspections, discussions are currently underway between the Organic Certification Bodies and the Department to establish �at what stage a producer specific abattoir/butcher should become registered in their own right. This will probably depend on the number of animals being processed by the facility or the number of producers using any one facility,� according to Mary Lynch.

�If a large number of animals are being processed by a facility, records for the organic producers should be kept and made available to the inspector and then the cost should be borne by the owners of the facility not the producer.�

Sheep and beef farmers I have spoken to, both in conversion and fully certified, have voiced concerns about this new situation. Next week, these concerns will be outlined.

2010 hi and lo lights in organics

From an organic farming perspective, what were the big high and low points of 2010? Perhaps surprisingly, its possible to find plenty of highs.

First up, some strong organic brands did especially well. Both big players, Good Herdsman and Glenisk did so. The latter saw significant growth in domestic and export markets. In general, the organic dairy sector saw significant expansion in retail terms, with even ALDI and LIDI now brimming with affordable organic milk and yoghurt.

(Image: Highbank farm's stall at the Kilkenny Christmas Market just gone)

Smaller organic companies also did well. For example, Beal cheese (Kerry) and Dee's Burgers (Cork) both used the platform of the Dragon's Den to grow their business.

And grow their businesses they have. Both companies use social media, especially twitter and facebook, to great effect. Facebook ads are far more targeted than any other adverts: users of facebook list an incredible amount of personal information about themselves, and adverts can be targeted towards this information with striking accuracy.

Beyond ads however, both have used other aspects of facebook to draw potential customers over to their business including running competitions and regular updates.

Earlier this month Highbank farm (Kilkenny) was in the news. This long standing organic company, run by Rod and Julie Calder-Potts, won the top prize in a new Food Innovation awards scheme sponsored by Bord Bia in association with the South-East County and City Enterprise Boards.

Highbank Farm won significant development supports as part of their prize: �15,000 for consumer research and �10,000 for design, branding and packaging, as well as supports from the Enterprise Boards.

Omega Beef Direct (Tipperary) also won an innovation award at the same competition, for their organic Galloway steak burger.

Mossfield cheese's (Offaly) winning of the National Organic Awards was an undoubted highlight too. This year, the Awards made the TV news on RTE at 6 and 9PM, increasing the profile of both the competition and the winner significantly.

Mossfield's mature gouda-style cheese, now available in a vac pac, was the real standout product from the awards. Darren Grant of the Organic Supermarket (another successful company for 2010) had a real ah-ha! moment when he tasted this cheese, and he has tasted many products over the last three years of business.

He reminded me of the Food critic Anton Ego in the kids movie Ratatouille, when he tasted the dish that transported him back in time to a perfect dish of his childhood.

It wasn't all winning either though. The loss of Trevor Sargent as junior minister with responsibility for organic farming earlier on in the year was a major negative for the organic sector. His knowledge and workrate were second to none. While Ciaran Cuffe has done a good job in carrying on the work, his time is spread out over three ministries.

That said, avoiding budget cuts for either the Grant Aid or the overall organic farming budget was a major achievement in what is year three of a major recession .This makes it the third year of no cuts, which is remarkable.

Another loss was market value � down about 10% for Irish sales. While this is in line with other areas, it is nonetheless difficult for farmers and food businesses.

While there have been positive signs of increasing market share for organic meat, there is a major change coming downstream in 2011. The rules with regard to processing organic meat are changing: producer specific abattoirs/butchers will now be subject to inspections from organic certification bodies.

It is also the case that butchers or large scale processors will not be allowed use producer-specific abattoirs: they will only be allowed use certified organic abattoirs.

This represents a significant change for those organic farmers who up until now used local butchers. Primarily, this concerned those who direct sell. To ensure organic standards are maintained, organic animals were killed first thing in the morning.

Now this relationship is set to change. Will it be for better or for worse? Both sides of the argument will be presented over the next two postings here.

In the meantime, have a prosperous, peaceful and pleasant new year!