
"The recovery will be more GAA than IDA, less bond market, more farmer's market". That's according to the ever colourful David McWilliams in a recent
article.
McWilliams was making the point that when times are tough, we can and do rely on others, buying and selling from each other, to get things moving again.
He witnessed this sort of resilience when he visited Iceland, a country that has taken bold economic steps and now seems stable compared to Ireland.
The quote is also about playing to our strengths and to our uniqueness. To this end, the artisan food sector in Ireland punches well above its weight.
(picture: Iain Flynn winner of Blas na hEireann 2010)
There are a couple of ways of measuring this. Firstly, there's the extraordinary performance of the little guys, the artisan producers, when they come up against the big boys, the large food corporations, in food competitions this time of year.
While companies like Flahavans and Glenisk do well each year at the National Organic Awards, this year's winner was Mossfield Cheese's mature, a handmade farmhouse cheese made on the farm at the foothills of the Slieve Bloom mountains.
While companies on the scale of Hilton Foods and AIBP did very well at this year's Blas na Heireann, the winner was Iain Flynn's spinach and ricotta cannelloni. Flynn's Kitchens, the food business that makes the Cannelloni, is a one man operation.
Flynn's Kitchens makes and sells a range of food products, including freshly prepared meals, pate, quiches, mayonnaises, oils, preserves and chutneys using local and organic ingredients.
Flynn himself makes dishes, staffs his own stall at farmers' markets and even does his own accounts, as he has a degree in economics.
This is reflective of the caliber of the next generation of food producer coming through � a decidedly post Celtic Tiger sort of business person.
Flynn's local sourcing is very comprehensive, a point he really emphasises in conversation.
Up against 1000 other producers in 34 categories, Flynn's Kitchen's stood out because of the sheer quality of the ingredients and preparation.
Mairead McGuinness, MEP, who attended the Blas na Heireann awards, commented: �I am astounded at the passion of the producers involved in the Blas awards. I believe this is a vital key in Irish food production. Ireland and especially home produced products have an exceptional quality brand to offer. The potential in this sector is truly enormous.�
Artie Clifford, chairman of the Blas Awards pointed out that �these Irish awards provide an opportunity for Irish producers to compete with each other and prove that they can compete with the best in the world. We are now asking shoppers to talk with their feet and support home grown produce.�
While the export output of these artisan companies is small, the export potential is strong. And that's the key point: Ireland Inc can grow more indigenous food businesses which can then begin to earn foreign revenue.
Before reaching that point, artisan food businesses help rebuild consumer confidence by beginning the process of recirculating money in the economy and augmenting business busy-ness more generally.
It is also the case that many of today's bigger food companies, companies like Clonakilty Black Pudding, Mr. Crumb or Lily O Briens, started out as small companies and grew into a different category over the last 15 or so years (small food companies are defined as those with between E100,000 and E3.5 million turnover each year).
Many other growing food companies are in a healthy state like Burren Smokehouse, St.Tola's, Just Food or Sheridans.
The Taste Council, a voluntary group made up of many of the key stakeholders in the artisan food sector, has been lobbying for years, through the good times and the bad, to improve the sector's supports.
Here are some facts and figures on artisan and local food from their Agri-vision 2020 submission:
- There are 350 specialty micro and small food business in Ireland.
- These 350 firms grew from a population of 60 firms in 1996.
- These 350 firms have a combined output at consumer prices (i.e. prices charged at retail or foodservice prices) of �475 million.
- Small firms are more labour intensive: Ireland's 350 small food firms employ 3000 people, a figure that grew over the last 10 years, while other agri-food sectors retracted in employment and in other terms.
- The Food Safety Authority of Ireland (FSAI) reported a 50% increase in inquiries regarding the starting up or establishment of new food firms in 2009 compared to 2008.
- A study by the New Economics Foundation in London found that every �10 spent at a local food business is worth �25 for the local area, compared with just �14 when the same amount is spent in a supermarket. That is, a pound (or euro) spent locally generates more than twice as much income for the local economy.
In sum, small food businesses selling through routes to market other than the supermarket, contribute disproportionately more in terms of labour and spending patterns.
Peter Ward is owner of the Country Choice Food store in Nenagh. Founded in 1982, the store is famous amongst foodies and artisan producers alike.
He is full of ideas as to how to better facilitate the artisan sector and consumers alike. Routes to market is a big thing for Ward: �we need to up our game in the catering colleges, including in purchasing policies. Former catering collage graduates who now have food businesses need to be able to access that market.�
He continues: �all the young chefs have to be introduced to the excellence of artisan food production - otherwise we can't expect them to use the produce themselves when they graduate. They need to be stimulated by meeting producers, otherwise they just become fodder for an industry that doesn't see artisan food as terribly important.�
�Graduates from other disciplines need to see food is a viable option: no one presents food to them as a future career, they fall into food for other reasons. But people from other disciplines often have lots of new and useful skills to bring � this year's winner of Blas (na Heireann) is a perfect example� he says, in reference to Iain Flynn's accountancy background.
Indeed the recession has thrown up a whole new class of highly skilled and educated people who are out of work for the first time in their lives. The potential for these people to become superb food craftspeople is real.
Public procurement is another area where there is potential for the artisan sector, provided the �larger caterers who have the public contracts, like the contracts for feeding children in schools� can be convinced of the merit.
To this end, the newly revamped green public procurement initiative announced by Junior Minister Cuffe could begin the process of improving access for alternative foods not currently getting a look in to the public sector route.
One area Ward is especially passionate about is state support: �why is there no national media campaign to promote farmer's markets? I'd like to see organisations like Safe Food using their budgets to guarantee accessibility of affordable food to people who most need it outside of the supermarket structure�.
Considering some of the things food campaigns are run about, such as an egg a day being ok, this seems to be an eminently sensible suggestion.
He emphasises the importance of accessible and affordable fresh food, rather than just shelf life, a major focus for supermarkets.
Indeed, research into food poverty, in Ireland and elsewhere, has emphasised the importance of access as much as price: people without cars, in particular older people on low incomes, cannot frequent supermarkets as often as others. They rely on nearby shops and outlets for their food staples. Problems arise when these outlets do not have significant amounts of fresh fruits and vegetables, which is often the case. (See Combat Poverty's food poverty research for more)
I put some of these points to Bord Bia. They point to some distinct areas where they help grow farmers' markets.
�Bord Bia sponsored RTE One�s �Fresh from The Farmers� Market� programme for two years. The series, which aimed to encourage viewers to use and support their local market and artisan producers, featured well known chef and farmers market advocate Clodagh McKenna. It ran on prime time national television for 16 weeks and featured / interviewed in excess of 25 markets and 30 top quality small Irish food producers.�
They also supported an episode of RTE One�s Eco Eye which focused on the promotion of farmers� markets in Ireland.
Their own website and social media functions promote traders at farmers' markets, which includes a full market listing, while their Marketing Assistance programme includes signage and point of sale materials for farmers markets. They intend to upscale their web work with regard to markets, �We plan to include new elements in this over time, such as an interactive market map, case studies, training modules for markets� a Bord Bia representative said.
Finally, they developed a Code of Good Practice, to help both encourage best practice and promote farmers' markets in general.
However, there are issues, some of which are funding related. Bigger campaigns are match funded. This means that EU rules dictate that those being supported need to come up with some of the money themselves. So campaigns on, for example, beef and eggs, can get industry supports, whereas farmers' markets, which invariably have smaller scale producers at them, find it harder.
Indeed, funding rules also dictate that it is producers and products, rather than routes to market or farmers' markets per se that get the supports, according to a Bord Bia representative.
This invariably calls for creative actions, as the Fresh From the Farmers' Markets TV shows was. They do stress that they are, as it were, reviewing the situation with regard to promoting farmers' markets, so who knows, some fresh and funky promotions may grab your attention soon. In the meantime, seek and ye shall find.