
Below is an article on Irish winners at the Great Taste Awards. Last night, it was announced that Mossfield cheese won
best Irish speciality product: a great honour, one of the top 14 awards out of almost 4800.
See Thursday 18th's Examiner for an article of mine featuring Mossfield and other great Irish farmehouse cheeses.
(Pic accross: Fingal Ferguson of Gubbeen, a 3 star winner at Great Taste)
They have been called the Oscars of food, and, perhaps this time of year the Olympics of food too. The Great Taste Awards in London feature the most critically acclaimed of foods and drinks.
4753 entered this year, up a couple of hundred from last year, but all a far cry from the 220 who entered when the competition started 15 years ago. This year, just over 1150 one star awards, for what the organisers call general excellence in taste, texture and flavour. So even to get that is an achievement. Better again are the two and three star categories: 220 received two stars, while just 72 got the highly prized three gold stars.
The Great Taste Awards are organised by the UK�s Guild of Fine Food. Every entry is blind tasted by at least three teams of experts. All of the judges� comments are made available to producers, to help with product improvements.
There are 36 classes of food and drink, but even within this, these classes are further sub divided into categories: so, for example, eight sub categories cover the products in the chutneys, pickles and marmalades section.
While it is primarily the UK�s speciality and artisan food sector that enters, Irish food companies seeking out UK markets, as well as what is considered to be a genuine, independent quality mark of recognition, often enter.
The awards can generate increased revenue through the branding the logo provides, as well as publicity the competition itself achieves:
Last year�s Supreme Champion winner was a free-range pork pie from Walter Smith�s butchers in Birmingham. Before Walter Smith�s won the Supreme Champion award, pork pies made up less than 1% of their sales but they now represent over 10% and their pies are now sold through Selfridges.
Some Irish products did especially well this year. In total, 141 products from Irish food companies won medals, with 14 winning three gold stars: these 14 products (see box) are entered into the supreme finals, the winner of which will be announced on the 8th September.
There are some exceptional areas of expertise, and some Michael Phelps-style hovering up of medals by particular companies.
Various sweets, pork products (especially bacon, hams, black puddings) cheese and tea/coffee seemed to score best for Ireland, displaying both the old and new in Irish food and drink business very well.
Companies like Java Republic, Bewleys, Lir Chocolates, Green Pastures (Cheese makers from Donegal) scooped multi awards.
Aptly enough, three of the five brown bread medal winners were Irish. While this might seem par for the course, there were no Irish winners in the brown bread category last year. This year, not only did Irish brown breads win most medals, the top two, receiving two gold stars each, were Irish.
�There was a tasting in Belfast this year� according to Pascal Gillard, one half of the two person Jinny�s bakery from Drumshanbo in Leitrim. �With a product so dependent on being consumed fresh, that probably helped a lot. Driving for a few hours to Belfast is far better than trying to fly scones to London� he continues.
Pascal and Sinead Gillard together run Jinny�s bakery. According to Sinead, "I made brown bread for our family business McGuire's Cottages. The reaction from our Irish and foreign visitors was always very positive. My best friend convinced me to try selling to local shops in Drumshanbo and that was the start of our bakery business. The response from local people was so positive that I decided to try another few shops."
From a micro business start, they now supply over 30 outlets in the counties of the north west. The couple make brown bread, including a sugar free version, carrot cake, scones and Christmas pudding.
According to Pascal, �We�re delighted with the 2 stars. There were very few 2 stars awarded to bakeries and only one other brown bread received this accolade. Our produce was tasted 24-48 hours after it was baked so we were very pleased to get the 2 stars.�
Another winning combination came from the En-Place and greatfood.ie partnership. Together they won three awards � their Wild Cranberry Apple and their Walnut & Fig Chutney won single stars, while their Hot Red Pepper Relish won two stars.
This combo does seem to be a match made in heaven. Monaghan�s En-Place specialise in reductions, herb oils, dressings, chutneys and savoury marmalades. Last year�s En-Place partnered with Castle Leslie to produce a balsamic reduction with sherry and fig which was awarded best Irish Speciality, and which indeed made it into the last three, out of 4500, for the supreme winner.
Greatfood.ie is an amazing food website success story. Anne Kennedy from greatfood told me �When I started Greatfood.ie, it was meant to be a small site offering information on Irish food and recipes. But I got so involved in it, I thought - why shouldn't I be more ambitious - and now just over two years later it's the largest food website in Ireland and is the food partner for Ireland.com.�
In fact, if you type food into google.ie, greatfood.ie is the first website that pops up.
Building upon the success of the site, there is now also a retail dimension (greatfood2buy.com) and a range of products, including the now award winning hot pepper relish.
�We're very proud that we're probably the first Irish media partnering an artisan producer, with an award-winning range of food!�
The site is going from strength to strength: �In the next month we'll be launching our cooking TV channel so readers can see us and our guests cooking in our new Mopalpa and Gorenja Test Kitchen.� Considering their humble beginnings, with as Anne put it, �no resources, just passion���these awards are an encouragement for us, for small producers and for anyone who is starting something new against the odds.�
Along with the one and two star winners, there was also an array of three star winners from Ireland.
Among these is Butler�s Pantry. Considered pioneers in the fresh, hand prepared, seasonal �food to go� end of the market, they began in Mount Merrion Avenue, Blackrock, Dublin, in 1987. From this one shop start, they now have eight stores in Dublin and Wicklow, with a turnover of e4.5 million, and 20% year on year growth.
All for their foods, including their 3 gold star lamb tagine, are cooked by their team of chefs in their own kitchens in Bray, under the guidance of Executive Chef Niall Hill.
Niall sources his lamb, indeed all of their meat, from master butcher Thomas Kinsella in Enniscorthy.
Traditionally lamb tagine is finished with preserved lemon. Niall uses fresh lemon, dried apricots along with his own blend of spices. This resulted in what the judges considered a faultless tagine.
Another three star winner was the Gubbeen ham. The Ferguson�s Gubbeen food business scooped four awards in total, with the ham receiving the top accolade.
The 250 acre farm �of rock and bog� according to Giana Ferguson, in west Cork, is itself a fantastically integrated, holistic enterprise. Tom and Giana take care of the cows and cheese, son Fingal the pigs, ham and bacon, and daughter Clovisse the herb garden.
In a way, every product and person on the farm contributed to the 3 stars. The pigs behind the 3 star ham are fed the whey, which is a by product of the on-farm cheese making � and the cheese is made from their own cow�s milk. Herbs from the garden are used in the smokehouse and in the brines.
Fingal Ferguson goes to a lot of trouble to get the ham just right. Fingal�s trainings in France shines through in the brine his ham spends a week in. This brine, a delicate adaptation of a recipe from charcutier Jane Grigson, includes a whole bottle of white wine, a bouquet Garnis (rosemary, thyme and bay) as well as pepper and juniper.
More and more products are coming on line: with great foresight, resourcefulness and ingenuity, their fine meat products - burger, sausage, salami, pepperoni, pepperami and chistorra - keep being expanding upon. The pepperami has even been known to end up in some west Cork school lunchboxes these days.
Fingal uses his trips to regional farmers� markets (Scull, Skibbereen, Kinsale and Bantry) to also deliver to delis. His saddleback, tamworth and duboc animals get not only great whey, but some excellent leftovers from regional food businesses Fingal deals with, including top drawer olives and pesto from the likes of the Real Olive Company. Lucky swines!
The south west also earned a three star rating for one of Hodgins sausages� black puddings. This new black pudding has been developed from a gluten free pudding the Mitchelstown company also carry. �We developed the recipe in conjunction with Spice O' Life in Dunmanway. Our pork comes from Dawn Pork and Bacon in Waterford fresh every morning� according to Collette Lambe of the company.
The performance of Irish food and drink companies augers well for the Irish quality food scene. There are definite areas of expertise emerging, and some incredibly dedicated food producers flying the flag for this island nation.
Irish 3 star winners:
�ine�s Chocolates Caramel Fudge Sauce
Gubbeen Farmhouse Products Ltd Ham, unsmoked
Clonakilty Black Pudding Company Oak Smoked Rasher
Curraghchase Free Range Pork Free-range (Rare breed) Streaky Bacon
En-Place Foods Balsamic & Apple Reduction
Mossfield Organic Farm Organic Mature Gouda-style Cheese, 9 months+
Oliver Carty Organic Loin of Bacon
Avoca Lemon Curd, Mushroom Soup
The Butler's Pantry Lamb Tagine
Java Republic Ltd FS Blue Earth Organic Fairtrade, Bluebird and Houseblend Espressos
Hodgins Sausages Mitchelstown Foods Black Pudding