Wednesday, October 31, 2007

the socio-environmental weight of air freight

Plenty of organic news out there at the moment, including yet more research to suggest that organic food is better for you than other food....discussion on this research to follow soon....
However, I came accross an interesting perspective on the Soil Association's decision to move towards fair trade for their certified organic air freight produce. (there's more going on there too, in relation to heated glasshouses and the overall caron footprint of the produce
Has the organic sector been hyjacked by greens? Is this one of the ugly faces of protectionism, as the FT suggests? Or is it a socio-ecological synergy, a win-win situation to help consumers whilst improving the planet?

Thursday, October 25, 2007

feile bia, eurotoques and quality Irish food

Here is the full text of the article I had in the The Examiner last week, on the Feile Bia pullout by the chef's organisation Eurotoques. (I also had a side bar on what Eurotoques do and promote, but I won't include that here. Instead, why not have a look at their site youself? Link at end of article.)

�Naturally, we�re very disappointed�. So say�s Aidan Cotter, chief executive of Bord Bia, on the fact that Euro-toques Ireland have pulled out of the Feile Bia Scheme.

So he should be. Euro-toques Ireland represent some of Ireland�s highest profile chefs. Amongst their 200 members includes Nevin McGuire of McNean�s bistro, Darina Allen of Ballymaloe House and Ross Lewis of Chapter One. The organisation, as the name suggests, are a pan-European one, with over 3,500 members throughout Europe. As in the Irish situation, the membership includes many of the most highly regarded chefs in each country. This is reflected in the fact that the organisation was founded by chef Pierre Romeyer chef from Belgium�s Le Maison de Bouche, itself a three-star Michelin star restaurant.

What makes the withdrawal all the more noteworthy is the fact that the aims of Euro-toques seem, on the face of it, to chime with those of Bird Bia and the Feile Bia scheme in particular. Euro-toques aim to support culinary traditions and quality food. And Bord Bia are the Irish food board, who promote and market Irish food. According to Bord Bia: �Central to the F�ile Bia concept is that members source the maximum amount of freshly available produce. In addition to promoting traceability, F�ile Bia aims to encourage sourcing from artisan producers and small butchers and highlighting this supplier information on menus�.

Indeed Feile Bia was a joint initiative in the early days. Brid Torrades currently runs and chefs in two establishments in Sligo: the Atrium caf� in the Model Arts Centre and Osta caf� and wine bar. Brid has been a commissioner with Euro-toques, and was so when the Feile Bia concept was first mooted:

�Feile Bia was actually a Euro-toques initiative. It came from fete de la cuisine in Europe, which was to bring our culinary heritage back to everybody�. Brid suggests that they, Euro-toques, gathered the relevant players together, including Bord Bia. Following a brainstorming session, the name Feile Bia was settled upon.

According to Brid, Feile Bia was supposed to �support and save our local producers and through them our culinary heritage and raw materials. We felt that the original Feile Bia did just that while at the same time encouraging chefs and hotels who would not have before then considered this idea to do so.�

From then on, Euro-toques claim, Feile Bia has moved away from this position. According to their letter of withdrawl, the Feile Bia tagline change from �A celebration of Irish Food� to �a celebration of quality food� and then �certified farm to fork� is indicative of the move towards traceability scheme support and bureaucratisation.

�Feile Bia is now essentially a traceability scheme, which favours larger suppliers and larger catering operations, who can bear the burden and cost of increased bureaucracy. As traceability legislation already exists, and Euro-toques members conform to this and go far beyond it, a scheme which essentially only guarantees traceability is superfluous and only adds to the growing bureaucracy which food businesses are now subject to�.

They also suggest that their own guidelines �go much further than Feile Bia. We aspire to sourcing in season, locally, with sustainable agriculture practices and good animal husbandry; elements which cannot be guaranteed by a �Quality Assurance Scheme�. Furthermore, we believe that people should have the freedom to produce and supply quality food without being forced to be part of any scheme which may contribute to the high costs and bureaucracy which are already crippling so many producers.�

Another major issue for Euro-toques is GM. As the letter of withdrawal states: �We also have serious concerns�about the use of GM feeds in the production of meat and dairy in Ireland. We are not be happy to endorse a branding which �quality assures� such products�.

I put these concerns to Aidan Cotter, chief executive of Bord Bia. I asked him about Feile Bia and the Quality Assurance scheme: ��.the principle condition is that it has to be based on Quality Assurance�we have to have Quality Assurance as a platform on which to promote in order to stay on the right side of state aid rules.�

He also suggested Quality Assurance is about more than just safely, its about broader issues too, such as environmental health (e.g. salt levels in pork) and animal welfare.

In relation to the small producer, Aidan suggested that �We do believe that it supports small producers�. He also pointed out that the scheme itself does not cost money to join and mentions that it supports both small and large producers. Also, Bord Bia do promotional work for small producers, including the new launch of a centre of excellence to support these producers.

I then put some of these points to Lorcan Cribben, commissioner-general of Euro-toques Ireland. According to Lorcan, �it�s not difficult if you have money. If you are making a nominal amount of money, and then someone comes in and tells you to upgrade your production, and it�s going to cost twenty of thirty grand, more and more people are falling by the wayside because they can�t afford to do it.�

I also spoke to a small-scale producer. Ann O� Donovan supplies eggs to Brid Torrades. Ann�s main issues with Feile Bia are bureaucratic: the amount of hassle, paperwork, inspections and the like that the scheme would involve make it unattractive for her. Especially in a situation where she has no need or desire to upscale her production.

Ann, who just keeps 600 hens, is already overburdened with inspections: �We�d a batch of hens in May, and within 4 days we�d an inspector out. The department sent the inspector out to check the hens. Then another one checks the facilities. Another checks the feed. Possibly another for the packing house. Jan 2008, we�ll have to send away samples of hen manure for salmonella. The amount of paperwork we have means we employ an accountant. We don�t want to get in any deeper. I can�t see Feile Bia being any advantage to us - our customers have come through word of mouth�.

Brid was one such customer, who found Ann�s eggs at the local farmers� markets in Sligo: �the farmers� market has been a great outlet. I�ve got restaurants through that�.

So it seems that, from the small producer�s prespective, even if something doesn�t technically cost money, there are still costs involved. Time is money - time spent filing in forms, sending off samples and being inspected is time not doing all the other work you need to be doing, the work that actually makes money. So sometimes the only way to keep up with the regulations and bureaucratisation is to upscale production.

On GM, Euro-toques claimed that they �wrote to Bord Bia about these concerns in March last year and the response we received from Chief Executive Aidan Cotter was that �the production conditions for Irish beef are fully transparent and I am satisfied that the product continues to enjoy a strong, positive image and the full confidence of customers in the European Union, who now represent 93% of our beef export market�.�. They suggested in their withdrawal letter that �This is blatantly untrue, as few consumers are aware of the use of GM feeds in Irish food production.�

So I put this point to Aidan Cotter of Bord Bia: �what they say is correct: most consumers don�t know that most animals are fed feed that happens to be GM. It�s not deliberately GM, but it just so happens that so much of the maize and soya beans that comes across from the US and south America is GM and is not segregated. So farmers tend not to have a choice. That goes not just for Ireland, but also the UK and contintental Europe. So consumers in Europe are choosing meat locally, whether in France or Italy, that is generally fed on the same feed animals are fed on in Ireland. So when I say conditions are transparent, what I mean is that the conditions of production in Italy or France or wherever are the same, but our animals are fed to a greater extent on grassland�.

I put it to Aidan that, according to our new Food minister, this may involve a risk of the market: if consumers found out about this feed, they might be concerned. �If there is a risk, that risk is shared by all meat producers throughout Europe. Would consumers have a problem with it? We don�t know. But we have close relations with 40 retailers around Europe� and we�ve asked many of them for their view in regard to GM feed; we asked them would they be interested in a source of GM free beef products, and their answer is no.�

So consumers don�t know, and retailers are to an extent representing consumers to those who represent food producers. This retailer feedback is interesting, in a context where large retailers often claim to be GM free in their own label products, because of consumer feedback: According to Tesco, �our policy on Genetically Modified (GM) foods is driven by the view of our customers. They continue to tell us that they are not yet convinced of the benefits of GM. We do not therefore have any own-brand GM foods on our shelves�.

It is also the case that there is a body of research, including research by Teagasc, to suggest that the majority of consumers do not want GM foods.

The GM debate will obviously roll on, but Feile Bia will have to carry on without the support of the Euro-toques organisation. Last word with Lorcan Cribben: �if you do let all these artisan producers slip through the net, in 10-15 years time, Ireland will be a far poorer place for it�.

for more on Euro-toques click here....you didn't did you? click back there, on the blue word...eurotoques....

GM and media bias

You could be forgiven for presuming that the liberal media would behave in a typically liberal fashion with regard to GM...that the Irish Times might be a bit like The Guardian or some other similiar (insert random statement on pinko lefto whales here)....well, not so according to some research from DCU: here

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

inconvenient youths

I'm looking for parents and kids for an article I'm writing for the Examiner at the moment: It's about what are sometimes called 'inconvenient youths' - ie kids who hassle their parents to do good things for the environment. (Name a play on the Al Gore movie).
If you have one of these, and would like to talk about the various issues, positive and negative, post sth here and I'll get in touch. Or email me on moore.oliver@itsligo.ie
There are a lot of issues - the rights of kids to be a bit autonomous, to protect their planet from our destruction, but then also the limits to being forced into doing stuff you can't necessarily afford. Should animal rights, or foodie or environmental groups target kids to hassle us parents?
Are you in fact one of these ppl who works for an organisation that does this? If so, what's your take?
Questions questions....but post sth here if you are interested in this issue ....

Sunday, October 21, 2007

national organic week: things to do

Five of the best things to do for national organic week:

1: Clare: Visit an award winning organic goat's cheese farm
First up, there�s a chance to visit the place where multi-award winning organic goat�s cheeses are made. St. Tola�s organic farm is in Inagh, Co. Clare. There will be an opportunity to see the herd of goats, to learn how the cheeses are made, and of course to taste them. This is a good one for the kids, and who knows, they might even be tempted to try the soft cheese while they are there. This event is on Thursday 25th October from 11am to 4pm (065 6836633 or here).

2: Leitrim: Go the organic nine-yards
The Carrick branch of the Western Organic Network are holding an event called �A Taste of Organic Living�. The aim is to �celebrate and showcase all that is good in local organic and artisan produce, holistic and naturopathic medicine, healthy and sustainable living, and local creativity�. Expect events talks and demos. They are making a special effort to hold a �pushing organic farming and food forward� forum, which should prove interesting. This is on Monday 29th October 11 am - 6 pm. (contact WON on 071-9640688 or e-mail info@westernorganicnetwork.com)

3: Leitrim and Limerick: Get an organic job
The Organic Centre, Rossinver Co. Leitrim are holding an event for anyone with an interest in learning more about producing organic food. This is called �Training and Education Opportunities in the Organic Sector� and is open to all. The staff of the Organic Centre will be on hand to answer questions about the 2008 programme. This event is on Wednesday 24th October 2pm � 6pm. (phone 071 9854338 info@theorganiccentre.ie or click here)
or
National organic week Information Day in Dromcollogher. On Tuesday Oct 23 2pm
Tour of the college gardens, including the polly-tunnels, herb gardens, compost areas, vegetable plots, green manure beds and the bee hives. Plenty of advice and assistance, from growing to grants. And, a potato tasting to finish off the day! Phone 063-83604 or click here for more

4: Dublin: Check out the new place where the Dublin food co-op now lives:
And finally, for events, there�s the launch of the new Dublin Food Co-op�s premises. This will be by Minister John Gormaley, �who has been a member for about 20 years� according to Pauric, the development officer with the Co-op.
This new venue is fully twice the size of the previous place, and has excellent, dedicated booths for stallholders. There are few if any places in Ireland with as much variety in organic food and other organic options: there are not that many places where you can buy organic yoga suits for the yummy mummy who has it all. But you can in the co-op. The new venue is 12 Newmarket Dublin 8, off Cork Street, in the heart of the Liberties. You may have missed the launch last weekend, but there's always the lunch to be sorted. So why not drop by this Thursday (2-8pm) or Saturday (9.30-4.00pm). (for more try here or ring 01-873 0451 - check out the domain name!)

5: All over: Who says organic food is expensive? Git yer self some free top scram at 3 tastings of organic food for the week

There are also some organic food tastings being held all over Ireland. Watch out for them at your local supermarkets or farmers� markets. Let�s face it, farmers� markets are more interesting places to hang around than supermarkets, so there isn�t much point in listing the tastings at supermarkets here. Though it's listed as such, eating strawberries in a supermarket is not a 'what's on' event, by any stretch of the imagine.
Friday 26 October 11.00am Carrick-on-Suir Farmers Market, Heritage Centre Grounds, which will be an organic cook-in:
Thursday 25th October 9.30-2.00pm �Omega Beef Direct� Christmas Gift Voucher Launch with Joe Condon of Omega Beef. All recipes from Scott Walsh of award winning restaurant Q82 in Dungarvan Omega Beef Organic Meat Stall at Dungarvan Food Market, The Square, Dungarvan, Co. Waterford:
Saturday 27th October 9am-2pm multi-tastings at the Oracle Farm and Coolanowle Organic Farm Stands at Carlow Food Market, Potato Market, Carlow Town.

Thursday, October 18, 2007

organic milk in the US

Occasionally here I've commented on or pointed out some of the differences between US and EU organic standards. I've also commented on US organic standards with particular reference to milk.
Well, there has been a new twist to the story, and you can read all about it here
it seems a class action against aurora organic dairy corporation is on the cards....

Monday, October 15, 2007

udder places: where to find irish organic food and farming news

Ok, I seem to be getting v bloggy at the mo, but I've decided to tell you about some of the links I've put over there on your left.
I'll just do some of the Irish foodie ones for now:
greatfood.ie is big, non-biased and full of Irish foodie news. There's an organic tab there too, with standalone organic foodie articles
Plan organic is in many ways the origin of the species when it comes to organic food sites....not as regularly updated as it was, but this place has been the standard-bearer for organic news and views with an irish twist for many moons. Great archive for organic info from 2000-2004 esp
Glenisk dairies are Ireland's leading organic company, and have big plans - for Ireland and the world! Their site will probably be a central part of this process, and has a whole range of areas - farmer profiles, press section, a (potential) blog, a parenting section with many experts, a 'why organic' secton...this site has a lot of potential and is already v useful...
amanda's blog is an irish foodie blog focused primarily on organics. Which is great! Amanda runs an organic hamper company, and finds the time to get her organic wanderings (e.g. electric picnic) and musings (how do you know its organic?) out there....
organic matters is the site of an irish organic food and farming magazine. This mag has a long and quite amazing history, which I must tell y'all about some time. However, a brief history: 1976 - a muddy field in north leitrim, a festival... some blow-in, pure as the driven snow hippies decide to print a mag....the mag expands, history moves on, new people come, occasional 'musical differences' occur, and the mag eventually spawns another mag - about 15 years later...the original mag was common ground, and organic matters is the one that has survived the longest (common ground ended in 1996 - it ran for 20 yrs only once missing a print run, and according to an editor i interviewed a couple of years ago, at one stage in the early 1980s had 2,000 subscriptions - twice what Vogue had at the time).
Anyhoo, more on this history stuff later - organic matters site carries lots of organic feature articles.
then, further down and away from the organic irish ones at the top, there's a pure foodie one, which will lead you into loads of other pure foodie one's too...it's the slightly strangely-titled humble housewife blog . This really is a foodie blog!
Happy meandering!

organic austria and a stong name

Our minister is in Austria at the mo, checking out how they've gotten to such a rate of organic land area....wee bit here about it and also you can just click on Austria over there on the left and see what I've written on the place.
In fact, there's plenty being said about organics by minister sargent (now there is a name soaked in authority...minister and sargent all in one)
here's one recent statement amanda pointed out on her site last week
O

Wednesday, October 10, 2007

national organic week

National organic week is coming up.
Let me say that a bit louder, cos it seems to be a bit of a secret at the moment!
NATIONAL ORGANIC WEEK IS COMING UP
nothing as of yet on the bord bia site, but there are a couple of events well worth checking out. I have a list of events, and mostly it's just tastings, and some more specific promotional work. However there are at least 2 special events - on the 29th Oct which is a civic holiday (ie bank holiday) - there's the "taste of organic living" in the Dock, carrick-on-shannon. Organised by WON (western organic network). This will have something for the mind, the body and the soul, with a forum, tastings, stalls, screenings etc.
And also Saturday 20th in Dublin - launch of a new orgnaic premises. The Dublin food co-op has, finally, gotten a new premises.
I remember shopping, or more specifically participating in the place in the late 1990s and early 00's, and all the talk, even then, was of a new premises. To finally find out that it actually has a new place is great news. In an ocean of rampant consumperism, this place is a becon, a lighthouse shining brightly, leading the way....

Interestingly, as a market, it has a dedicated manager, which may be the way to go for other farmers' markets.

Their site is here and their new premises is 12 Newmarket, Dublin 8 (off Cork Street)

lastly today, here's a one for the actual farmers out there - a story about organic stores

Monday, October 1, 2007

farmers' market conference report 2007

FARMERS� MARKET CONFERENCE: FOOD FAD OR FOOD FUTURE?

Report by: Oliver Moore, Irish Examiner, Sligo I.T., Greenbox (http://olivermoore.blogspot.com)

(note: a word version of this report is available here

at the rural food company training network's site)

This one day, all Ireland farmers� market conference was held in the Radisson SAS hotel Athlone on Monday the 2nd July. It was organised by the Rural Food Company Training Network, the Western Organic Network in association with Comhar LEADER na hEireann - the Irish LEADER Network and supported by Atlantic Organics. The event itself was very well attended, having booked out well in advance. Along with the conference itself, there were some excellent stalls of interest to delegates ranging from specialist food producers, equipment and seeds to food development and training.

Opening Addresses:

John Bowman (Questions and Answers, RTE), who chaired the conference, opened proceedings. He suggested that the conference agenda was very important. It was about putting resources and wealth back into the countryside, about healthy food and about the health and survival of rural Ireland. In that context, he felt that it was very appropriate that Minister Eamonn O� C�iv, from the Department of Community, Rural and Gaeltacht Affairs was opening the event.

Minister O� C�iv (Department of Ccommunity, Rural and Gaelteacht affairs) began an upbeat event in upbeat fashion, aptly starting as Gaeilge. The importance of farmers� markets to development and sustainability in rural Ireland was the topic broached in the native tongue. The minister then switched to English and the new governmental arrangement: he was happy that his new ministerial colleague, Trevor Sargent, minister of state for food and horticulture, would also be attending. Likewise, he looked forward to working with Minister Sargent. Being from the west, he pointed out that Galway market was one of the few to survive from his childhood. He was delighted to see some of the pioneers who spearheaded the drive towards farmers� markets in attendance, including Darina Allen. He also saw growth potential in the sector, which he claimed was a �niche rather than small� sector.

Isobel Fletcher (small food business co-ordinator, Cle � the Irish LEADER network) followed on from the Minister. Isobel spoke of the agri-food sector: While the figures suggest that agriculture is less prominent than in the past, the agri-food sector maintained its importance, both for exports and employment. She also addressed other issues: the need for diversification and the opportunity farmers� markets provide; farmers� markets and the importance of values to consumers; the opportunity for new migrants to contribute; the importance of presentation and traceability; food miles and finally tourist desires for authentic local foods. The need for safe food at farmers� markets got a special mention, both as a necessity and a topic that needed to be broached with discernment.

Minister O C�iv returned to the podium to make two final points. He dealt with the local context farmers� markets find themselves in. Good planning and local authority buy-in were important. The Cl�r programme was established to help with the latter, and he was disappointed to see some resistance from local authorities. The need for protocols to insure the local provenance of the foods and the producers was emphasised, otherwise local shopkeepers would be rightly annoyed at the wholesaling of goods. He referred back to a previous speech he made, when he joked about not seeing oranges at a farmers� market he was opening, only to see oranges inside. A quality mark is needed, he suggested, to allow farmers� markets to become a window for all that is good about rural Irish food.

Diane Dignam (Programme Manager with Accel) closed the opening addresses. Along with thanking the previous contributors, she spoke of the training Accel provide, in conjunction with the Eilish Broderick of the Rural Food Company Training Network and Sean McGloin of the Western Organic Network. Diane also mentioned that their work would be further developing in September.

Opening presentations:

The first of the main speakers of the day was Darina Allen (Ballymaloe house, Chef and Writer). Darina gave a typically impassioned speech about both the historical development and current state of farmers� markets in Ireland. Her San Francisco �light bulb moment� in 1995 when she saw a farmers� market and the opportunities it offered to Irish food producers. The Coal Key market in Cork herself, Caroline Robinson and others established, Midleton market, and then some �thorny issues� were all addressed. She addressed the issue of localness � while you clearly want as much of it as possible, you also need variety, she suggested. The other thorny issues were: Inconsistencies of quality, low standards and the lack of both farmers and homemade goods at some farmers� markets; the need to bring country markets, which maintain high standards, into the loop; the price of stalls at privately-run farmers� markets; inconsistent local authority attitudes and behaviour, in particular in relation to their interpretation of the casual trading act; Environmental Health Officer (EHO) consistency; attracting more farmers in, in particular getting the IFA involved. This latter point got the first spontaneous round of applause of the day, and was emphasised by Darina pointing out that three farmers in Midleton are still on the land because of its market. She then spoke of opportunities and trends she saw in food terms: local, seasonal, rare and foraged foods such as honey, apples, wild garlic, her best selling organic nettles, rare breed meats and more. Cookery demonstrations were attractive at a farmers� market, while fishermen�s� markets were likely to emerge in the near future. Finally, grants for refrigerated trailers and the educational dimension of a farmers� market were presented as opportunities.

Questions from the floor dealt primarily with the issues of the management and the frequency of Ms. The use of an employed manager to represent and organise the farmers� market was suggested from the floor. In relation to queries on frequency, going weekly and running through all kinds of weather were suggested as the best options by Darina, for the consumer. She also suggested allowing in seasonal sellers, such as Autumnal soft fruit sellers.

And in response to Darina�s request for the IFA to get involved, a representative of the IFA�s horticultural section spoke from the floor. He pointed out that the horticulturalists were under severe pressure; their numbers were down to 200 from 1000 just a few years ago. However, literally in the last year, the IFA has started to take farmers� markets seriously. While this has been a solitary campaign, the representative suggested that if they are approached, they will now be supportive.

Michael Gleeson (EIRI Corca Baiscinn) spoke of the practicalities of establishing rural farmers� markets. The four key elements are:
Physical location - be central, visible and have good parking.
Have a core of dedicated producers
Have a solid structure: the rules of the market are a tool to prevent poor quality or unsuitable produce in, but they also need to be somewhat flexible, especially in rural under-populated locations. Shop around for the best group insurance deals.
Work hard and decently at it: Have an inability to take �no� for an answer, while keeping key people on-side

Along with these points, Michael emphasised local embeddedness and consumer relations: he referred to consumers as (following the Slow Food Mantra) Co-producers who should get what they want: tofu salad won�t go down as well in small isolated rural towns as bacon and cabbage, he suggested. He also suggested that one person could be appointed as a farmers� market development and support officer in each local authority, and that sustainable farming should be taught in Agricultural courses in Educational Institutions.

Questions from the floor brought up the balance between duplication of stalls and healthy competition. While it should be possible to figure out the balance between the two, John Bowman offered a note of caution: what if someone says that their version of a particular product is better? Location also emerged as a discussion point: in towns with no central focus, it can be hard to attract people in, it was suggested. Michael replied that he has had to deal with the same issues, but they are surmountable. Essentially it just takes time, he suggested � three years is the measure, and the second year is often the hardest. The option of evening markets, and the further need for training in educational institutions also emerged from the floor.

Panel Session: Comparing and contrasting different models of markets:

The open forum discussion that followed featured a panel consisting of Ray Dunne, Quarry mount free range meats; John Brennan manager, Leitrim organic farmers� co-operative; Jackie Spillane, market manager, Dublin/ Wicklow; Michael Peters Nuffield Scholar; Emer Duffy, Vice chair, Country Markets ltd.

The discussion revolved around the following key issues: the varying degrees of local authority support, insurance, language used to describe markets and, related to this latter point, the presence or otherwise of farmers at �farmers�� markets.

With regard to local authority support, inconsistencies were again mentioned with regard to council attitudes to signage. A lack of general support from local authorities, and the need for supports to increase incomes which are otherwise too low received a round of applause.

Insurance and the Casual Trading Act were discussed in detail. It was suggested by a representative of the Irish Food Market Traders Association (IFMTA) that there may be no need for insurance. This representative suggested that the relevant person to liaise with is Will Coventry in the Department of Trade and Enterprise, who has the guidelines to the Casual Trading Act. A representative of the Insurance industry pointed out that we live in a litigious society, and suggested caution. He also pointed out that the company he represents, FBD, have a useful specific policy: if you have farm insurance, you have product liability and you can sell at no extra charge. He also pointed out that if there is processing involved you need to make sure that your processor is insured too. In a point which links the first and second of these together, it was also suggested from the floor that some local authorities want both individual stalls and the farmers� market itself to be insured, with Public Liability of up to �6.5 million required. The speaker suggested that neighbouring local authorities do not require this. Jackie Spillane mentioned that the cost of Insurance does act a useful filter against �flighty vendors�. The notion of group insurance for farmers� markets was also mentioned.

Language also caused a stir. Farmers� markets being described as �organic farmers� markets� are bad for consumer confidence, according to Jackie Spillane, if they only have one or two organic stalls present. She also made reference to the fact that cocos, the county council run model of farmers� market she�s involved in, have a high percentage of producers present as vendors. From the floor, it was suggested that the term farmers� market is often a con. The producer and vendor who suggested this also suggested that the consumer was starting to realise this. She also suggested that the lack of IFA support for farmers� markets put people off getting involved. Others suggested Teagasc also need to get involved in training people to produce for direct selling. John Brennan, however, suggested that the name farmers� market was worth maintaining. The job was to attract farmers, not change the name, in his opinion. He also suggested that certified organic produce on sale at farmers� market has a form of quality assurance, through the organic certification scheme. A discussion also developed on the issues around local slaughtering and waste disposal, on the benefits of co-op structures and finally the need and opportunity for a national representative farmers� market organisation.


Marketing presentations:

Different farmers� markets and farmers� market models were then analysed. Kate Burns (Senior partner, First Western) examined the Origin farmers� markets. She studied farmers� markets in Boyle, Manorhamilton, Sligo, Ballybofey, Letterkenny, Omagh, Strabane and Ballymoney. Regeneration, encouraging enterprise and the integration of social, economic and environmental goals were LEADER and Action 2�s aims in funding these farmers� markets. There were market, production and locational issues, along with marketing/branding issues, concerns around agency consistency and resources. However there were also lessons learned: There is no �one size fits all model�: cultural and social factors make farmers� markets in different towns quite different. Kate compared Colraine farmers� market�s circumstances to Ballymoney�s: Colraine is a university town, tourist-orientated, with both retired people and people on relatively high incomes and the council have been very supportive of the farmers� market, through attitude and funding. Ballymoney has had the opposite experience. She also suggested that farmers� markets with small target populations need to be in operation weekly and fish, meat, bread, cheese and vegetables are a must at any farmers� market. Kate also suggested that pricing, selling techniques and labelling tend to need greater consistency; that networking between producers and host communities is invaluable; that markets in areas of a low population base and challenging economic factors probably need on-going support; and that markets do best where host communities are engaged in complementary activities.

Aisling Roche (ARMS food marketing specialists) presented her research on Roscommon farmers� market. She presented a positive �before and after� story, whereby the farmers� market implemented her recommendations and are benefiting from so doing. A combination of interviews, observation; customer survey of 100 customers, workshop and finally a marketing action plan were conducted. Signage and product labelling were major issues. However the consumer survey elicited many positive responses. Aisling had a range of recommendations for the stallholders: meet regularly, develop an action plan, recruit new stallholders, display information and make it a more cosy experience through the use of music, heaters, lights and improved layout; form an association, use name badges, have a code of practice, tell and re-tell their customers their positive stories, consider their market segments such as local businesses having their lunch there, advertise and generate PR locally and finally use branded boxes and bags. Much of this advice had been taken on board. Novel approaches included inviting the French Market in as guests and placing one stall outside the entrance each week to entice people in.

Una Fitzgibbon (manager, small business, Bord Bia) also presented her research. Her first tip was to let people know where your market is. She then presented some consumer trends: Consumers now want to live life to the full, but are busy; they want to make an ethical difference and choose healthy options; they also want trustworthy, authentic food. She suggested that Irish consumers eat together as a family, that half consider localness and that quality is important to them. Specifically in relation to farmers� markets, her research revealed the following: consumers felt that feeding the family was a complex task, with many mixed signals coming from the media; consumers want good food that is organic in style � natural, fresh, unprocessed. Various consumer quotes were then presented, featuring adaptable consumers seeking natural foods; busy consumers and consumers seeking simple food without too much hassle. So consumers want simple, unprocessed food and feel that the local dimension has a myriad of positive aspects which induce a feelgood factor. She concluded by suggesting that trust, the quest for natural foods and sociability were the three fundamentals that need nurturing, protection, enhancement and promotion. Una also presented more marketing tips, including providing freshness and quality; using publicity (especially roadside signage, newspapers, visibility/passing by and reputation/word of mouth); being sociable and community-orientated; build direct relations with consumers (from email addresses and phone numbers to other direct selling options). She then pointed out the range of work Bord Bia do for the small food business sector in general and on farmers� markets in particular, including both sponsoring and featuring quality Irish foods at events, publishing a farmers� market guide, and organising the taste council.

Keynote presentation:

After this, Trevor Sargent, (Minister of State for Horticulture and Food) took to the podium. He firstly suggested that he was booked in before he became minister, but that he was delighted to attend in this new capacity. He pointed out that farmers� markets are important for regional identity, they excite the public and they excite the department, the later of which he cited as an achievement. He then spoke of his plans for farmers� markets. He wants farmers� markets to be genuine; to create clear a plan to remove obstacles to direct selling; to liaise with local authorities while also encouraging them to be supportive and consistent; to make planning regulations clear, consistent and minimal; and finally to improve food production facilities.

Food production also emerged as a key theme. The steady decline in vegetable growing in Ireland is a particular concern for him, especially in light of food security issues. He notably mentioned that he would press release the seasons, to help people reacquaint themselves with the natural growing times for vegetables. He also spoke of achieving GM free status, of providing local abattoirs and of reaching 5% target of organic production by 2012. He concluded by suggesting that he was ready to listen to and lead the sector.

Questions from the floor revolved around achieving organic status and the misleading use of the word organic at some farmers� markets, as well as the difficulty in being a viable food producer with the costs of food production rising all the time. This latter point struck a chord with many attendees. He minister agreed and emphasised with these floor statements. He also stated that, despite the (selectively interpreted) WTO rules and their effect of food production, farmers� markets were a lifeline for farmers, and food security was bound to become an issue for the future.

Panel discussion: Successful Farmers� Market management for best results:

Annemarie Mullan, (chair, St George�s food and garden market, Belfast)
Ted Murphy, (market manager, Midleton market)
Caroline Robinson, (chairperson, Irish food Market Traders Association)
Patricia golden, (Origin farmers� market, Boyle Una Bhan tourism)

The discussion initially revolved around the need for and availability of training. Then, the focus shifted over to models of farmers� market. From the floor, the notion of having a market or market�s manager was posited. Anne-Marie Mullan agreed that this has helped in her situation. Trevor Sargent pointed out that the successful and long running Dublin Food Co-op also has a manager. He also pointed out that local authorities should have a person on this issue and other related town centre issues. Ted Murphy and Patricia Golden pointed to their own situation, where successful farmers� markets have liaised well with local authorities and with funding agencies. However, it was also suggested that funding is no guarantee for success: a LEADER funded farmers� market in Cork was one of the few of the 30 or so that failed, according to Caroline Robinson. Darina Allen suggested that there was too much emphasis on funding: all you need is good produce, a table, boiling water, soap and a towel to get started, she suggested.

Standards, image, price, trading days (traditional town market days or separate days), the price the producer gets and should get, availability of produce, and opening times of the farmers� market were discussed. Hot ethnic foods, strategic use of crafts to fill dead areas, musicians and lobbying tourism agencies to promote self-catering holidays all emerged as positive opportunities for farmers� market development.

When it emerged that two Castlebar town councillors and the town Clerk were in attendance, eager and actively seeking a farmers� market to be established, the crowd reacted with both surprise and enthusiasm.

Remaining presentations:

Oliver Moore (Irish Examiner, Sligo I.T., Greenbox) presented on how farmers� markets deal with the problems of distance and disconnection, and on the important role organic food plays in the farmers� market. Distance and disconnection refer to the effect of inevitable economic processes, especially involving increasing scale, which reduce how local either the people or the produce at farmers� markets actually is. Traded, processed goods sold by vendors rather than farmers are an example. There are, however, numerous ways farmers� markets deal with these otherwise inevitable problems. These include: The cumulative aspect to the development of farmers� markets in Ireland, whereby newer models of farmers� market enrol greater stakeholders, including rural development workers. That said, privately run farmers� market in operation in and around Dublin avoid these issues by simply offering a huge array of produce; the value-adding opportunity the farmers� market offers to producers � essentially producers can turn their hard work into a good story to help their product sell; the organisational interests of organic farmers - organic farmers have been to the forefront of developing farmers� markets, because they like the idea of controlling the means of distribution; consumers deliberately seeking out ever more local and natural produce as and when it becomes available. Possible problems to consider, however, include inconsistency in the treatment of farmers� markets by local authorities; over institutionalisation, whereby local authorities and rural development organisations become so involved that they control and stifle the farmers� markets; overstretching capacity �many farmers� markets have less than 10 stalls, the UK has 550 farmers� markets for 60 million people, Ireland has over 120 for just 6 million on the island; and broader town planning and retailer-relationship issues. Overall, however, he suggested that the outlook was relatively positive: in broad terms, the interests of producers, organisers and consumers resonate.

Joanne Lorriman (senior Environmental Health Officer with the Health Service Executive) pointed out that the law in relation to food trading had changed from being prescribed to being about guidelines. She suggested that voluntary engagement with the EHOs was beneficial, so stallholders can get advice on what they need to do. Two specific aspects of the responsibilities of food traders were covered: hand washing and temperature control. There are three categories of risk - high medium and low - and each has a different set standards. High risk requires a designated wash hand basin, an adequate and instantaneous supply of hot and cold water at the stall, soap and disposable paper towels or other suitable hand drying facilities. Medium risk requires a designated wash hand basin, an adequate supply of hot and cold water at the stall, soap and disposable paper towels or other suitable hand drying facilities. Low risk requires that the stallholder demonstrate there is adequate means of cleaning hands. She also discussed equipment and training. With regard to temperature control, Joanne stated that the guidance required a 5 degree temperature to prevent rapid microbiological growth and refrigeration or a suitable alternative is needed. Factors to consider include type of food and duration of market, food management techniques, equipment and training. Overall Joanne suggested that the standards were higher than three years ago, but that greater exchange of information was needed.

The first statement from the floor pointed out that some EHOs seem to come with a negative attitude before even the market has opened. A lack of consistency in EHOs was suggested. Joanne replied that they too are inspected, meet to discuss best practice and consistency and have a formal complaints procedure. The need for communication, in the face of a feeling of �helplessness� was emphasised from the floor.

Gareth Jones (Managing Agent FARMA - the UK�s national farmers� retail and markets association) presented a practical case study on certification and accreditation of farmers� markets. He first compared Parisian and US farmers� markets, before suggesting that the first of the 550 modern certified farmers� markets in the UK began in Bath in 1997. To be certified by FARMA, the farmers� markets have to either have farmers selling the produce or they must follow the FARMA guidelines: Stallholders sell only their own products; principal stallholder is involved in production; produce must be from the locality. Currently they have 230 farmers� market members. They offer a certification scheme based on three elements: certification of farmers� markets; verification of producers; diploma for farmers� market organisers/managers. Gareth then outlined the initial 12 week process of certification, as well as the procedures for year two and three, FARMA's training of inspectors, media work, advisory work and so on.

Facilitated discussion: Isobel Fletcher, Trevor Sargent and Michael Gleeson then facilitated a discussion on whether the certified farmers� market approach was possible in the Irish situation.

The first suggestion from the floor pointed out that differing regions in the US have a different experiences: California has a great growing climate, is abundant and has large population centres. By comparison, upstate New York has different conditions, and does not have a certified system. Gareth suggested, however, that these very people have said to him that they now wish they had started with a certified system years ago. He also said that the locality rule is set by the farmers� market itself, not the certification company. Others also suggested that the UK model was based on a country with larger population bases and monthly rather than weekly farmers� markets, whereas some farmers� markets in Ireland are in towns with two to three thousand people and on weekly. It was also suggested from the floor that most of the problems with the authenticity of farmers� markets occurred in the Dublin region. An alternative suggestion was for farmers� market-led certification, and to not only certify farmers� markets, but to tie funding to having a certified standard. Likewise, other speakers suggested that there were too many traders and not enough farmers, that high standards involving farmers or local farmed produce need to be maintained, that people involved in farmers� market are being too short sighted in how they view farmers� markets, and that control and answerability are both missing. The potential for a system of derogations, similar to the certified organic derogations was also suggested, whereby the specific circumstances of each farmers� market could be taken into account: the day of the week, availability or otherwise of various products in the town itself, availability of suitable produce for selling at the farmers� market in the region, and so on.


The activities or otherwise of the producers was also discussed. Certifying producers rather than markets was suggested. It was also suggested that a so called fisherman could have a boat but never use it. The value of a co-operative approach amongst farmers, of giving certified farmers preferential, central locations within the market, and using the skills of regional sellers was also pointed out. Farmers are not always natural sellers, and are busy, it was suggested.

The fact that farmers� markets are in the public good and are often held on a traditional day in a traditional place was pointed out by Michael Gleeson.

The bureaucratic and paperwork potential of yet another certification scheme clearly worried a large number of delegates. A fish monger suggested that there was an �industry in regulation� which was �driving producers to the wall�, which resonated with many delegates. Duplicate inspections were also an annoyance. The potential for organisations such as Cl�r, for local authorities to appoint and support someone to help develop farmers� markets, and a mentoring approach to help develop skills, rather than an inspection only approach, were also all suggested.

Trevor Sargent suggested that these are frustrating problems, but we live in a country with exceptionally high multiple retailer dominance and suffer from the effects of years of poor planning, which makes us very car dependent. Both of these factors lead to a predominance of out of town shopping centres. However, he pointed out that his Green Party ministerial colleague John Gormley was wiling address these issues.

Some key themes that emerged included:

Farmers� markets as an important and growing part of the retail landscape, both from a rural development and consumer perspective
The need for local authority consistency in relation to their treatment of and work with farmers� markets
The need for farmers� markets to provide high quality produce with authenticity, but also to be more internally coherent: be aware the benefits of more professional presentation
The need for training both in sustainable farming and the specific area of farmers� markets
The benefits of working with other stakeholders in a constructive way: e.g. seeking advice and recommendations from EHOs
The need for more stakeholders again to start getting involved in a more serious manner, e.g. the IFA
The benefits of more people working for farmers� markets, whether as market managers or as local authority representatives
The range of consumer wishes: quality, naturalness, simplicity, cheapness, contact with local people and local food, variety and more.
There is no clear agreed position on certification of farmers� markets as of yet, though there is a palpable interest in having high standards. Bureaucracy, frequency, climate, regional socio- cultural factors, provenance, population, conflicting consumer expectations, rate paying shops, broader town management issues, a legacy of bad planning, the lack of farmers at farmers� market, and the misleading of consumers in the current, less regulated environment are all issues that feed into the dynamic.


Ends. Oliver Moore July 2007 (http://olivermoore.blogspot.com/)